SIARGAO: Surfing Paradise

Siargao is every surfer's dream. From the time I started my life on board, I promised one day I'm gonna surf Siargao. 

Dreams really do come true :).. And so this is it.. The wish I had before is now just a paddle away.

I am just a beginner surfer. I have surfed many times but I don''t surf all the time (if only I could...). I have read many travel mags featuring how waves are going in Siargao, I have watched many videos and seen a lot of pictures as well. But there is a big difference between how they describe it vs you yourself doing it. 

The moment I touched down Siargao, I was more than excited to surf Cloud 9 at last. But as they say, you cannot have both worlds at the same time. Because of some wave analysis by our surf partners, we had no chance to surf Cloud 9 and diverted to Daku instead. 

Daku is one of the surf breaks in Siargao. Surfers line up in the middle of the water unlike other surf spots I've been to where the waves break near the shore. At first I was really hesitant to jump off our boat and paddle to the line up. I am not a good swimmer and even if I am already used to surfing, I'm still afraid especially if the waves are too big for me. 

One by one the surfboards were thrown into the water and my surfmates dived too, paddled into the line up and started to play. My instructor was already waiting for me in his board, giving a lot of encouragement for me to jump in. I put my leash on but still my knees were trembling in fear and cannot push my body to dive into the 50-meter deep (or more I think). Yes, I swim. Yes, I surf. But that moment, I doubted I can. That was my first time to surf in the middle of the sea, that was my first time to ride a wave bigger than me. 

Those already in the water waiting for me kept on saying I can and I should jump now because the waves are so good to play with. They said no surfer is afraid of deep water, no surfer is feared of big waves. And so I had this make or break, my deep breath made me realize I wont know unless I try. My first fear of drowning is gone. We paddled into the line up and my second doubt came in - the waves of Daku are really "daku". I saw a lot being wiped out and their board rolled up with the waves as if they were clothes inside a washing machine. But I had no choice, I had to try this or else I'm gonna miss half of my being a surfer. 

While waiting the wave for me, my instructor had these words to boost my confidence: "Ang gaganda ng alon ngayon, tamang tama pang beginner". I know he's kidding because the waves are breaking horribly! But I kept that in mind to drive my fear away, forget the panic and get a perfect ride. 

And I did...

The instance I was riding those waves at first I doubted I can was the moment I felt as if my life turned slo-mo, the moment I had more than being stoked.

I had bruises, I had cuts, I had several wipe outs. But those pains kept me want for more. Surfing is not just about riding waves. It is more of a fun-filled experience, the kind of happiness it gives no matter how big or small the waves are or even if there are no waves at all and just sitting on your board having the intimate moment with nature.



there is 2 crazy french canadiens from Quebec city

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